Bindon Hill
The Salt PathBindon Hill enters the account as the downward counterpart to the steep ascent of Flower’s Barrow: a demanding section of the South West Coast Path in Dorset that turns a coastal walk into a test of footing, stamina, and route-finding. Its significance lies in the gap between the easier passage the walkers might have taken and the steep descent they actually make.
Setting and Approach
The walkers reach Bindon Hill after climbing Flower’s Barrow in hot, dry conditions. From the top, views open north across Dorset’s rolling hills and valleys and west along the white cliffs toward Lulworth. The terrain makes clear that this is no gentle ridge walk: the grass is dry, crisp, and slippery, and the climb has left them gasping.
Descent and Route Choice
They describe Bindon Hill as the downward counterpart to Flower’s Barrow’s ascent. A gentler walk along the ridge and descent toward Lulworth Cove was possible, but they miss that route and take the steep path down toward Mupe Bay instead. Their detour places them on a sharply descending track where each step compounds the strain of the earlier climb.
On the way down, they stop to let a large family pass uphill, its picnic baskets, blankets, cool boxes, dogs, and folding chairs contrasting with the walkers’ exposed, effortful passage. The family moves in a long, noisy procession; the walkers continue downward with their knees taking the cost of the descent. At a ledge below, they pause to look at enormous fossilized growths in the rocks. The guidebook identifies them not as fossils of an imagined creature but as the remains of conifers that grew in their original soil around 135 million years ago.
Place in the Journey
The descent makes the coast path’s difficulty concrete: a route that can appear as a line on a map becomes steep grass, aching joints, and decisions made too late to take the easier way. The walk then carries them toward Lulworth Cove, where they remove their boots and the narrator binds a toenail that has burst out again. Bindon Hill is thus remembered not as an isolated landmark but as a demanding passage linking a strenuous climb to the next stretch of the coastal journey.